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A Suffolk Lane

~ A diary of my life in rural north Suffolk.

A Suffolk Lane

Tag Archives: Suffolk

Wenhaston Doom

02 Tue Dec 2025

Posted by Clare Pooley in architecture, churches, Days out, Rural Diary

≈ 43 Comments

Tags

St Peter's church, Suffolk, The Doom, The Resurrection, Wenhaston

It is strange how one can live for years near to places of beauty or interest but never get around to visiting them.  There always seem to be other things to do and of course these places will always be there, won’t they? And we will always be able to get to them whenever we like – yes?  Elinor and I decided to visit one on a very warm afternoon in June this year.

Wenhaston church

Wenhaston is about ten miles from where we live, is fairly near to Southwold on the coast, and is surrounded by farms and heathland.  Not too far away is Bulcamp, the site of a battle in the year 654 between the Anglian King Anna and the Mercian King Penda.  Anna and a couple of his sons were killed during the battle.  A workhouse was built at Bulcamp in 1764 which then became a fever hospital and has now been converted into apartments.  A little bleak and isolated for my liking. There is a nice pub in Wenhaston and I think the choir I belonged to years ago performed a concert or two in the village hall. I also had to take Alice to Wenhaston once a week for guitar lessons for a while.

Plants on the churchyard wall

Mexican fleabane

Perforate St John’s-wort

Wenhaston church

Wenhaston church

Elinor and I had come to see the church which is situated in the middle of the village.  It is referred to in the Domesday Book and part of it is of Saxon origin.  For many years it was looked after by Blythburgh Priory but like lots of churches in this country it suffered much during the reign of Edward VI and also during the Commonwealth of England under Oliver Cromwell.  William Dowsing‘s men visited in 1643 and according to the Wenhaston church guide book ‘did a lot of damage, breaking the stained glass, taking down the carved angels from the roof, removing the organ and the font cover, destroying the altar, hacking the pulpit about and much else besides’.  What they didn’t find was the Doom which the people of the parish had covered with whitewash many years earlier during Edward’s reign when he had demanded the destruction of all roods and the abolition of paintings and pictures in church.  For three centuries and more it stayed undiscovered and forgotten on the rood beam, whitewashed and painted over with passages from the Bible.

Scale model of the church on a windowsill

The bell-tower with the ropes lifted high, out of the reach of the hoi-polloi. There are six bells, two of which are medieval and probably came from Blythburgh Priory.

Here are the local Constable’s manacles for the stocks hanging up in the vestry. Redundant now of course, and there is no local constable any more either. I think that is a truncheon hanging there too!

In 1892 the East end of the church was rebuilt.  During the dismantling of the roof the rood beam was discovered intact and to still have its original paint and gilding.  The whitewashed Doom was removed plank by plank and thrown out into the churchyard for later destruction.  Fortunately, it rained heavily during that night and in the morning the painting underneath was beginning to emerge from under the whitewash.  The whole Doom was cleaned and experts were called in to assess its provenance.  The Doom was put on display and people paid to see it; the proceeds of which helped to pay for the rebuilding of the roof and the church was then able to get even more repairs done.  The new chancel arch was too narrow for the Doom to be replaced in its old position so for a while it was put on the West wall of the church where there was a gallery.  The gallery was removed in 1927 so that the Doom could be seen more easily and sometime later the Doom was placed where it is now on the North wall.

The Doom

The Doom is a representation of the Last Judgement.  It was probably painted in about 1520 or just before then, the date partly based on the style of the Virgin Mary’s bodice as depicted in the Doom. The villagers had started saving for the work to be done during the 1480’s. Dooms were usually placed on the chancel arch which separates the Nave where the common people worship – the Church Militant – and the Chancel, where the priests lead the worship – the Church Triumphant.  A rood screen was often placed at the chancel arch, which added to the seclusion of the chancel, and the sculpted or carved figures of Our Lord on the Cross with the Virgin Mary on one side and St John the Baptist on the other were placed on the top of the rood beam.  In this church the figures of the rood were attached to the Doom.  The figures have long since disappeared but their position and shape can be seen by the blank spaces on the Doom painting.

At the top of the Doom on the left is God as Christ seated on a rainbow and displaying His wounds.  At the top on the right are the Virgin Mary and St John the Baptist kneeling in prayer.  (Sadly my photograph of these two latter figures wasn’t good enough to show here).

This is God appearing as Christ, the Son of Man

Beneath the figures of the Virgin and St John is the Archangel Michael with the Devil. The early Church adapted many pagan customs and ideas to Christian purposes in order to ease the transition from the pagan life to that of being a Christian.  One such custom was the idea of a messenger from Heaven and therefore the attributes of the Roman god Mercury were assumed by the Archangel Michael who became the guide of the dead.  Mercury weighed souls in classical mythology so now Michael holds the scales in his left hand.  His right hand holds his sword and he wears a circlet surmounted by a cross on his head.  The circlet at the time was very fashionable in Northern European and also English art.  You can see resurrected souls behind Michael and the Devil wending their way towards St Peter. The dead have arisen as naked as they were when they were created and all aged about 33, the age at which Christ was thought to have died.

The Archangel Michael and the Devil

The Devil is wearing ragged sleeves and trousers which, according to the guide book, suggests the outfit worn by the Devil when the Wenhaston actors visited the seaside village of Walberswick in the late 15th century.  The Walberswick churchwardens described the entertainment as the ‘Wenhaston game’.  There is a second face painted on the Devil’s belly.  This is an artistic convention often seen in late medieval painting which suggests that the Devil’s soul had been put at the service of his lower appetite and he was no better than a brute.  The Latin text says ‘N(unc) quo deest tu facias tabo amnesta – now for what is lacking may you give pardon for sin’.  This is for the benefit of these two (rather cute) little souls in the upper pan of the scales as they are weighed against the single pure soul in the lower pan.

Beneath the image of Christ are the resurrected souls appearing above ground and their headgear – crowns, tiaras and mitres – have been included to show their station in life. Usually, the rich and powerful are seen mixing with ordinary mortals in Dooms to show equality on Judgement Day but in the Wenhaston Doom they are set apart for some reason.  Meeting them is St Peter in his papal tiara representing The Church which alone had the power to admit men and women to eternal life through the Sacraments.

St Peter and the Resurrected.

The sheep and the goats have been separated and the sheep are admitted to the heavenly Mansions.  This is shown on the far left of the Doom.

‘Do come in and make yourselves at home!’

The goats however, have only the eternal fires and gnashing of teeth to look forward to.  On the far right of the Doom little devils gather up the accursed and cast them into the jaws of Hell which are depicted here as the gaping, toothed mouth of a fish.  Leviathan, a huge aquatic creature is often mentioned in Hebrew poetry and this led to commentators and artists seeing Satan as Leviathan.  In the picture there is also a person still wearing their shroud, a swine’s snout, a devil blowing on a ram’s horn (the last trump?), the damned encircled by red-hot chains and the Seven Deadly Sins are represented, one of them carrying a female figure upside-down.

The text underneath the Doom is probably Elizabethan and is from an unknown version of the English Bible.  Romans 13 vv 1-4

“Let every soule submit him selfe unto the authorytye of the hygher powers for there is no power but of God the Powers that be are ordyend of God, but they that rest or are againste the ordinaunce of God shall recyve to them selves utter damnacion.  For rulers are not fearfull to them that do good but to them that do evyll for he is the mynister of God”.

I am greatly indebted to the excellent guide book I bought at the church for the explanation of the Doom’s symbolism.

Elinor in her red hat contemplating the Doom. The wooden panelling you can see beyond her under the windows are the repurposed box pews.

The interior of the church looking Eastward towards the altar

The Jacobean pulpit
Face carved on pulpit
face carved on pulpit

The Font – a Seven Sacrament font but unfortunately the reliefs that had been in the arched panels were erased in the 19th century. Behind the font is the George III Royal Arms

The East window

A map of the parish

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Above is a gallery of all the windows in the church and below is the door.

The outside of the South door, the main entrance to the church. The door retains the medieval sanctuary knocker.

A cupboard with a catch

The Charity Board

Part of the new chancel arch from 1892

More carved panelling from the box pews.

The Nave roof

Part of a memorial to Reverend J Leman who died in Bath.

Medieval Holy water stoup on the outside of the church next to the door

Chest tombs
Chest tombs
20250612_142511Creeping cinquefoil1
Chest tomb
Chest tomb

Apologies for the length of this post.

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Bungay Re-visited.

27 Tue Feb 2024

Posted by Clare Pooley in architecture, churches, plants, Rural Diary, walking

≈ 65 Comments

Tags

Bungay, Chateaubriand, Elizabeth Jane Howard, mistletoe, Suffolk, town tour

This last autumn and winter have been especially wet, so walking from home has not often been possible because of the mud and deep puddles everywhere.  In fact, I don’t think I have walked along our lanes since the autumn, though Richard has – he is a hardier soul than me!  The field paths are probably very squelchy and much too difficult for me to walk on as well.  Most of my recent walking has been town or city-based when I have driven to Norwich, Halesworth, Beccles, Harleston or Bungay to shop.

I have taken a few photos, mainly with my phone during my recents trips to Bungay and I thought I would share some of them with you.

When I first moved to East Anglia in the 80’s I was told that in former times there used to be lots of mistletoe here but it had virtually disappeared from this part of Suffolk.  It had mainly grown on apple trees and when the fruit farmers decided that growing apples had become uneconomical because of cheap imports, many of the old orchards were grubbed up and the mistletoe went too.  Recently, I have noticed mistletoe making a come-back, mainly in the towns rather than the countryside.  Mistletoe is a partial parasite and makes it’s home on a variety of trees – apple, lime, hawthorn, poplar, maple and willow and the best time to see it is during the winter when the host trees have lost their leaves.  There are many trees in Bungay with mistletoe but I have just included three examples.

The darker masses on this tree (I think it’s a hawthorn) opposite the Co-Op supermarket are mistletoe plants (Viscum album )

Balls of mistletoe on trees in-between where the Co-Op is situated and the centre of the town.

Mistletoe on trees at a road junction.

A little further on from the road junction and close to the centre of town is a road called Wharton Street and that is where the library is.  On the opposite side of the road to the library is a house sporting a popular architectural feature seen on many houses in Suffolk; an oriel window.

House with oriel window.

Probably because parts of Bungay were owned by the Dukes of Norfolk who are Roman Catholic, Bungay has a fine Roman Catholic church and an attached Roman Catholic primary school.

A poor picture of the Roman Catholic church in Bungay taken from the church yard belonging to the redundant Church of England Priory Church of St Mary next door.

The Priory Church of St Mary. A redundant church looked after by a charity.

Holy Trinity church.

Holy Trinity church is the parish church in Bungay and is found behind the Abbey Church.  It is a smaller building and so easier to look after than the enormous St Mary’s church.  Holy Trinity was not damaged in the dreadful fire during the 1600’s whereas the Abbey church was; two of the people sheltering inside the Abbey church were killed by molten lead from the roof falling on them.

Here is the Butter Cross in the centre of Bungay. A market is held here once a week on a Thursday. Here is more information about the markets in Bungay.

Cork Bricks

This little passageway between houses is called Cork Bricks.  A strange name for an alleyway but during the 1890’s the owner of the house on the left of the photo had the cobbles replaced by cork bricks when his wife was ill and was greatly disturbed by the noise of traffic clattering past the house.  Read here for more information.  If you look at the sign on the archway over the entrance you will see a running black dog on the top.  The dog is ‘Black Shuck‘, a phantom hound that features quite heavily in East Anglian folklore.

Bridge Street

I walked down Bridge Street towards the River Waveney.  The Waveney is the border between Suffolk and Norfolk and once the Falcon Bridge is crossed Bridge Street becomes Ditchingham Dam and we have entered Ditchingham in Norfolk.

Boroughwell Lane

Just a step or two down Bridge Street from the Market Place is a tiny lane off to the right.  This is Boroughwell Lane where the town well was situated.  The lane makes a sharp right turn further along and ends up near Holy Trinity church.

Bridge Street looking back up towards the Market Place with the cream-fronted Chequers Inn on the right.

Bridge Street is a one-way road for cars; drivers can only go down from the Market Place but cyclists, using the cycle lane marked on the left of the carriageway, are able to go up the hill to the market place.

Bridge Street looking down it in the direction of the bridge.

Further along Bridge Street looking towards the Market Place. The houses are painted so brightly and look very cheerful.

On the left of the photo is a red brick house called The Music House and just beyond it you can see an evergreen tree standing at the entrance to a courtyard.

The courtyard.

Both the houses you see here have had well-known people living in them.  The red brick house on the left (The Music House) was once stayed in by the writer, politician, diplomat and historian François-René Vicomte de Chateaubriand.  After being wounded during the Siege of Thionville in 1792 he was exiled to England and spent most of his time living in extreme poverty in London.  For some reason, he came to Bungay and stayed at the house (now the Music House) of a Mr and Mrs Ives.  He fell in love with their seventeen year-old daughter Charlotte but the romance came to an end when Charlotte’s parents discovered that the Vicomte was already married!  The wedding ceremony had taken place shortly before he had gone off to war.  It was a marriage arranged by his family and he had never met his bride before the ceremony.  He was constantly unfaithful to his wife and also changed his allegiance a number of times.  He was appointed to an official position by Napoleon on his return to France but he eventually resigned in disgust after Napoleon had Chateaubriand’s cousin executed.  Chateaubriand published a strongly-worded criticism of Napoleon for which Napoleon threatened to have him sabred on the steps of the Tuileries Palace!  In the end he was just banned from entering Paris.  He eventually returned to England as Ambassador to France in the 1820’s where his personal chef created the Chateaubriand steak dish you might have heard of.

Chateaubriand – self-confessed greatest lover, greatest writer and greatest philosopher of his age! (Thanks to cdn.britannica.com for the image)

The white house in the courtyard, Bridge House, (look! it has an oriel window) was lived in by the writer and actress Elizabeth Jane Howard for the last twenty-four years of her life.  She died in 2014 at the age of ninety. Abused by her father and unloved by her mother she looked for love all through her life and never found what she seeked, a stable, loving relationship.  She was married three times firstly to Peter Scott the naturalist and son of Robert Falcon Scott the explorer, secondly to another writer James Douglas Henry and lastly to Kingsley Amis the novelist.  She moved to Bungay after a friend, the artist Sargy Mann, said the house next-door was for sale and it would suit her.  It did, and she bought it straight away. She loved the long garden which led down to the river and re-designed and re-planted it.  Here is a wonderful obituary written by her friend Hilary Mantel. Elizabeth Jane Howard wrote the Cazalet Chronicles as well as a number of other superb novels.  Her autobiography, Slipstream is one of the most honest I have ever read.  She never glosses over anything she’d rather not admit to as other writers often do.

Elizabeth Jane Howard (with thanks to Babelio.com for the image)

More houses in Bridge Street

The last house before the bridge.

Here I am on the Norfolk side of the bridge looking towards Suffolk.

The River Waveney in its winter gloom.

 

I hope you have enjoyed this tour of a part of Bungay in Suffolk.

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Bungay Castle

23 Thu Nov 2023

Posted by Clare Pooley in Historic Buildings, Rural Diary

≈ 62 Comments

Tags

Bigod, Bungay, Bungay Castle, castle ruins, castles, Suffolk

Bungay Castle gate towers

In my post about Mettingham Castle (https://asuffolklane.wordpress.com/2023/05/15/mettingham-castle/) I mentioned that I visited a cafe next to Bungay Castle and had a cup of tea there.  For my first post in six months I thought that I would tell you about the ruins of Bungay Castle which are hidden behind the main shopping street in the town.  Sadly, it is not possible to walk round them at present as they have become unsafe and the Bungay Castle Trust hasn’t yet made up it’s mind how best to deal with the problem.

Gate towers

The castle was originally built just after the conquest by a William de Noyers who constructed the motte and bailey and some stone fortifications. Roger Bigod who came over to England with William the Conqueror in 1066 was rewarded with a lot of land in England by King William and Bungay was included in this gift.  Shortly after the year 1100 Roger began work on the castle which is almost surrounded by a curve in the River Waveney; a natural defence.  Some say the name Bungay derives from the old French for ‘beautiful island’.

Curtain wall

The Bigods were troublesome barons!  Roger’s son Hugh took part in the civil unrest of 1138-1154, a period in history known as the Anarchy when both Stephen and Matilda claimed they were heirs to the throne of England. Hugh’s loyalty to King Henry II (who was Matilda’s son) was called into question during the early years of his reign so Henry confiscated Bungay Castle but gave it back again in 1165.  It was always thought best to placate powerful barons!

Bungay Castle – more of the curtain wall

Hugh was on the losing side in the revolt of 1173-1174 and his castle at Bungay was besieged, mined and slighted (purposely damaged in such a way as to reduce it’s value) by royal forces.  The site was later restored to the Bigod family and Roger Bigod 5th Earl of Norfolk further developed it and probably built the huge gate towers. Roger had a falling out with Edward I and after Roger’s death the castle reverted to the Crown and was allowed to fall into disrepair and ruin.  The Dukes of Norfolk re-acquired the castle in 1483 and retained ownership until the 20th century except for a short period in the 18th century.  In 1766 the site was sold to Robert Mickleborough who quarried the keep and curtain walls for building materials.  In the early 1790’s the castle remains were bought by Daniel Bonhôte, a local solicitor who sold them back to the Dukes of Norfolk in around 1800.  A dwelling for the poor had at some time been built on the site and other than it’s removal very few repairs were done for several centuries.  You can see the dwelling in the watercolour painting of the castle by the artist James Moore https://collections-test.britishart.yale.edu/catalog/tms:57364

Bungay Castle

Daniel Bonhôte’s wife Elizabeth wrote a Gothic romance called ‘Bungay Castle’ which was published in 1797 a few years after her husband had acquired the site.  I believe the reviews weren’t too good but reprints of the book can still be found on EBay and other second-hand book sites.

Remains of the earthworks which are in a small park next to the castle

The castle remains include the keep, the gatehouse, parts of the curtain wall and remnants of the inner bailey wall.  Parts of the earthworks around the castle are also extant and the whole area was given to the townspeople of Bungay in 1987 by the Duke of Norfolk along with an endowment for its upkeep.  The castle was scheduled in 1915 and was one of the first sites to be protected under the Ancient Monuments Consolidation and Amendment Act 1913.  It was subsequently listed as a Grade 1 Monument in 1949.

More information about Bungay and its castle can be found here and here

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Mettingham Castle

15 Mon May 2023

Posted by Clare Pooley in Historic Buildings, Rural Diary, walking

≈ 61 Comments

Tags

Bungay, Mettingham, Mettingham Castle, Suffolk, walking, Waveney Valley

Last May, just over a year ago, I had to take my car to the garage to have new brake discs and pads fitted.  Instead of going back home to wait for the work to be done (which would have meant Richard having to get involved) I decided to stay in Bungay.  Bungay is a pleasant market town but it doesn’t have enough to amuse me for two or three hours in the early morning.  It has a couple of places where I could have a tea or coffee, a museum, a castle and a few useful shops none of which were open.  I decided I would go for for a walk out of the town.  Bungay is situated in the Waveney valley right at the border between Suffolk and Norfolk.  It is surrounded by water meadows.

My route took me up Annis Hill towards Mettingham.

Annis Hill, looking down towards the town

The day was perfect; the first really warm day of spring last year.  The birds were singing and everyone I met was smiling.

I took this photo of an oak tree on my walk (the 6th May 2022) and I can see that greening was more advanced then than it was on the 6th of May this year, which has been quite cold so far.

I loved this long narrow field, almost a ‘ride’ with high hedges on both sides.

Photo-bombed by a bee!

At the top of the hill the road is level and in places the views of the surrounding countryside are wonderful.

I looked over the Cow Parsley (Anthriscus sylvestris) to the wheatfield beyond. Many people in Suffolk call Cow Parsley ‘Sheep’s Parsley’. My husband Richard, who grew up in rural Cheshire called it ‘Mothers Die’ as a boy.

I loved the Horse-chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) full of ‘candles’ arching over the lane.

At the far end of this lane there is a bend in the road and I was soon at the place I had been aiming for; Mettingham Castle.  Mettingham Castle is mostly a ruin and is in private hands so I was only able to look at it from a distance.  I think the idea of owning a castle, even a ruined one appeals to many people but the responsiblities and costs are often overlooked. Here is a short history of the village, castle, college and church written by Alfred Suckling in 1846; the foundation deed of the castle is dated 21st August 1342.  Here is the Wikipedia article.  In the past the castle has been open to the public on three days during the year; I am not sure what the present arrangement is.

Mettingham Castle

Mettingham Castle – the gatehouse

Mettingham Castle

Mettingham Castle

Mettingham Castle

Plants growing on the ancient walls

I hadn’t the time to stay longer or walk further so I retraced my steps back to Bungay where I found the café next to Bungay Castle and had a refreshing cup of tea.  I then walked back to the garage and sat for half-an-hour in a rather hot and airless waiting room until my car was ready.

I remember this walk very fondly.

 

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Southwold… and Fish and Chips

25 Tue Apr 2023

Posted by Clare Pooley in food, Rural Diary, seashore

≈ 67 Comments

Tags

fish and chips, seaside, Southwold, Suffolk, The Little Fish and Chip Shop, The Sole Bay Fish Company

Elinor has been extolling the fish and chips her father buys for her when they visit Southwold together.  She tells me I would really like them as the fish is beautifully cooked with a thin crispy batter and the chips are not at all greasy.

She needed a new photograph for the (age) 26 to 30 railcard she was applying for and for the separate ID card to be used when we vote in a few days time.  We thought we could go to the nearest photobooth which is at Morrison’s supermarket in Beccles, eleven miles away, get the photo done and then go to Southwold for lunch. Last Thursday was the ideal day to do it as Richard was going cycling with his friend John and they always have lunch out together.  The forecast was for a dry but windy morning and then rain showers in the afternoon.

We set off at 10.30 am, got to Beccles just after 11.00 and Elinor used the photobooth.  We then drove to Southwold and arrived at midday.  The morning had been glorious with bright sunshine and beautiful blue sky.  The wind was a very strong and cold easterly and this was particularly noticeable on the coast!  We parked at the Pier carpark and walked along the front towards the town.  The tide was in and the sea very rough so Elinor decided not to walk on the beach or even the promenade but along the upper road at the top of the cliff.

The sea at Southwold

Looking towards the Pier

Rough sea at Southwold

Looking down at the sea from the upper road

We noticed quite a large piece of driftwood had been thrown up by the sea next to the groyne.  If you look closely you will see that it is part of the trunk of a long-dead tree.  The woman in the ochre-yellow coat has her hood up against the blast of the wind.  We too, had our winter coats on and hoods up!

Ten minutes walking brought us to the road into the town and the ‘Little Fish & Chip Shop’ in East Street.  Here is a link to the shop.  You will see from the link that this shop is part of the Sole Bay Fish Company which has a restaurant and wet fish shop at the harbour.

The shop is very small with extremely limited seating; one isn’t really expected to ‘eat in’ here. Our order for ‘two haddock and chips’ was taken and we were given pagers which would bleep when the food was ready.  Some people go off and do their shopping and others wait on benches provided in the side alley next to the shop.  We decided to wait.

The view from our bench

There is a wisteria arbour strung with lights and lobster pots and in the summer the shade under the wisteria must be welcome.  The little lights shining in the evening as one waits for one’s food to be cooked must be very pleasant.  As we waited in the chilly alley we saw that the wisteria was just coming into leaf and there were flower buds appearing.

The view from our bench out towards East Street

Collen and Clare, the shop you can see on the opposite side of East Street has managed to survive the pandemic.  It is a shop I might go to if I had a special occasion to buy clothes for.

At last, after fifteen minutes wait, our lunch was ready.  All freshly cooked and looking very good!  We added a little salt to the fish and chips before we left and went to find a bench to sit on while we ate.

Fish and chips!

Elinor was quite right.  I did enjoy my fish and chips and how often does one get parsley and a slice of lemon with take-away F&C?  The key to good fish and chips is frying in lard.  So many shops these days fry in vegetable oil but it does tend to make the food so greasy and the batter soft.  I understand that many people do not wish to eat animal fats or pork products and lard is not particularly good if one is worried about cholesterol.  However, I have take-away fried fish and chips very rarely and a treat now and again is extremely welcome.

By the time we had finished eating, clouds were beginning to appear.  I had a small purchase to make in the stationers before we made our way back to the car.  With the cloud quickly covering the sun and blue sky and the wind becoming even stronger it was a cold walk and we had to bend forward into the wind to get along.  Fortunately, we managed to get all the way home and I’d even made myself a cup of tea by the time the rain started.  Richard arrived home from his cycle ride shortly after that only having got a little damp.

I hope you enjoyed your visit to Southwold!

 

 

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Huntingfield Church, Suffolk

13 Thu Apr 2023

Posted by Clare Pooley in architecture, art, churches, Rural Diary

≈ 73 Comments

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Huntingfield, Mildred and William Holland, painted ceiling, St Mary's church, Suffolk

For a number of reasons I have not posted anything on my blog for about a year.  Problems with the internet last Easter, an old laptop, a camera that needs servicing (or replacing), health issues and hardly any walks and journeys to share with you are the main reasons.  The almost complete absence of internet for ten days or so last Easter forced me into the hiatus and when the wi-fi returned I felt strangely unwilling to resume my WordPress and other internet activities. I obviously needed a break from being on-line; not that I am on-line a lot but I was finding I was becoming stressed because I didn’t have the time to read all the posts I wanted to and wasn’t able to comment fully on those posts.

During the last few months I have rediscovered not only the joy of reading all sorts of books but also the satisfaction I get from knitting.  Unfortunately, the gardening came to a halt during the hot summer drought and many of my garden plants died.  I am having to rethink how I will tend my garden in the future.  Richard and I were able to get away for a week’s holiday in early September to the Peak District in Staffordshire; our first break since the summer of 2019.  What a pleasure it was to revisit favourite places and to meet up with Alice and Elinor on my birthday.  Elinor stayed with Alice in Sheffield while Richard and I had our holiday.

Elinor finished her time at the University of Suffolk and was awarded a First Class Honours degree in Graphic Design (Graphic Illustration). We all attended her graduation in October on a very wet and chilly day; how proud we were!

I now have a new lap-top which has made life much easier but as yet, I haven’t been able to do anything about my camera.

May I take this opportunity to thank you all for your kind wishes and thoughtful comments on my posts.  I had no idea that I would spend so long away from my blog and I apologise for not explaining my absence earlier.

I have decided to ease my way back in by sharing a visit Elinor and I made to Huntingfield church last November.

Huntingfield church

This was the first time we had visited this church, which is surprising as it is only just over seven miles from our house.  Years and years ago, my father used to attend mid-week mass here helping the priest as a server or acolyte.

The church was begun in the 11th century but most of the building we see now is from the 15th century.  It is in good repair and has had a number of works of restoration done over the years.

The porch and main door

The church is known locally as the painted church.

Painted ceiling of the nave

detail from the nave ceiling

Detail from the chancel ceiling

Detail from the chancel ceiling

I took more photos of the ceiling with my phone but they weren’t a success. As you can see, the decorations are of more recent date than the church.  Any painting and decoration the church had had originally would have been destroyed or removed during the reign of Henry VIII in the 16th century or during the time of the Commonwealth in the 17th century.  The ceiling was painted in the mid-19th century by a woman called Mildred Holland who was the Rector’s wife.  She worked on the painting of the chancel from September 1859 until April 1860 with no apparent help from anyone other than local tradesmen who put the scaffolding up for her and prepared and primed the surface of the ceiling.  She also had advice from a Mr. E.L. Blackburne F.S.A. who was an authority on medieval decoration.  Three years later she began painting again, this time in the Nave and the scaffolding eventually came down in 1866.  It is said she did most of the painting while lying on her back.  She ordered the angels and other figures from a specialist tradesman and had them fitted for her but painted them herself.  Her husband had received an inheritance just before they arrived at the parish and this money was spent on repairs, new windows and furnishings as well as all the equipment needed for his wife’s painting work.

Pew end

Pew end

We visited shortly after Remembrance Sunday

Pew end (and a glimpse of Elinor!)

Pew end

Pew end

Pew end

Pew end

The font with its ornate cover

Top of the font cover

Font cover

William Holland presented the church with this font cover in memory of his wife who died in 1878, twelve years after she had finished her painting.

A scrap of the original decoration on the wall

Fragments of a Saxon stone coffin and standing cross from the 10th century

Church door

The table tomb of William and Mildred Holland to the right and a standing cross in their memory to the left

The church has never been long without patrons who help to find funds for restoration work.  I was surprised to see that the guide book to the church is illustrated by the artist David Gentleman.

Here is a link to more information about the church.

You could also read a novel based on the story of Mildred and William’s work in Huntingfield church.  It is called “The Huntingfield Paintress” and is by Pamela Holmes.  I read it out of interest and found it well written aand well researched.  It was too romantic for my taste but other readers have been very pleased with it.

 

 

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Walks With Elinor – Hen Reedbeds

20 Sun Feb 2022

Posted by Clare Pooley in nature reserve, Rural Diary, walking

≈ 109 Comments

Tags

Hen Reedbeds, reedbeds, River Blyth, River Wang, Suffolk, Suffolk Wildlife Trust, walking, Wolsey Creek

Elinor and I took this walk nearly ten months ago, a week after the walk I featured in my last post.  I hadn’t been at all well after my second Covid vaccine which I had had a couple of days after the previous walk so my only stipulation for this walk was that it be short.

Hen Reedbeds

Hen Reedbeds was opened in 1999 and is looked after by the Suffolk Wildlife Trust in conjunction with the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) and Natural England. It shows what can be done with land affected by coastal erosion and rising sea level.  It has a mixture of freshwater wetland habitats – reedbeds, dykes, pools and fenland and is home to many wading birds and raptors.  It was developed specifically to encourage the breeding of Eurasian bitterns.  Unfortunately, Elinor and I didn’t see many birds at all on our short walk which was only part-way along the Eastern trail.

There is a car-park just off the road which bisects the reserve but it is easily missed.  Luckily we had no trouble finding it because, despite never having visited this reserve before, we drive along the road quite often and even drove past the entrance to the carpark on our way to Reydon Wood the previous week.  There is a short walk from the carpark through trees, scrub and then reedbed to the road which separates the east and west areas of the reserve.

Some rather sorry-looking fungus on a tree near the carpark

Common Storksbill (Erodium cicutarium) on the path

Taking our lives into our hands, we dashed across the road and entered the reserve.  The road does get quite busy at times as it is the main road into Southwold and Reydon from the A12.

When we first arrived there was a promise of better weather. The sky was definitely blue in the distance.

Unfortunately, the blue skies disappeared and we had quite a chilly walk.

Elinor strides off into the distance

The water to the left of the path is Wolsey Creek and the path is called Quay Lane.  In the past there was a fair amount of river traffic in this area but not any more.  The creek is fed by water from the River Wang.  Such an odd name, isn’t it?  I believe the word comes from the Old English for ‘open fields’.  Nearby is a village called Wangford  which obviously is situated at a crossing of the river.

Farmland beyond the reedbeds

We continued along the path until we reached a more open expanse of water.  This is part of the tidal estuary of the River Blyth into which the creek flows.

The water shone like pewter.

Blyth estuary

Blyth estuary

Observation hide.

Because of Covid, the hide was closed which was a great pity because we might have seen some of the wildlife that is supposed to inhabit this reserve.  The pathway and anyone on it can be seen for miles around and any self-respecting mammal or bird would be keeping their heads down all the time we were parading up and down.  We did see a couple of raptors in the distance.  I saw a Common Buzzard and Elinor was fortunate enough to see a Red Kite.

We turned to go back the way we had come. Elinor was getting very hungry and I was tired.

I looked towards the farm and noticed that they had brought a horse out.

Horses

Sea Purslane (Halimione portulacoides ) growing at the edge of the creek

This was an interesting place and now that spring is on it’s way and the hides will probably be open again I might consider a re-visit in the near future.

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Walks With Elinor – Reydon Wood

22 Mon Nov 2021

Posted by Clare Pooley in Days out, Rural Diary, woodland

≈ 90 Comments

Tags

bluebell, coppice, dog violet, Goldilocks Buttercup, great crested newt, Holly, Hornbeam, Hoverfly, lesser celandine, primrose, Reydon Wood, Suffolk, Suffolk Wildlife Trust, walk, water-violet, wild strawberry, Wood Anemone, woodland

Let me take you back in time to the end of April of this year.  In preparing this post it has been strange looking through my early spring photographs while the leaves outside are falling from the trees and most of the flowers have gone.

Elinor and I had enjoyed our two previous walks in Halesworth and Beccles but this time we wanted to get away from people and buildings and into the woods.  One of our favourite places is Reydon Wood which is cared for by the Suffolk Wildlife Trust.  I have written posts about family walks in this wood a few times before but the last time we visited was about three years ago; how could we have left it that long?!

Reydon Wood

The weather was perfect, chilly but sunny and there hadn’t been any rain for quite a while so the paths were free of mud.  Spring was cold and late this year so the first leaves were only just beginning to show on the trees. The wood was full of birdsong and we soon found any number of spring flowers in bloom.  The light was strong and bright which was not conducive to good photography, for which I apologise.

The path through the woods

I love these perfectly pleated Hornbeam leaves (Carpinus betulus )

Common Dog Violets (Viola riviniana ) and a small white Wild Strawberry flower (Fragaria vesca) in the centre of the picture

Reydon Wood is quite small and would only take twenty minutes or so to walk round if one wasn’t interested in stopping and looking at anything.  We heard a couple of women approaching from behind us and stood to one side as they walked past talking non-stop.  We waited while the noise of their voices faded and birdsong re-established itself.

We saw Wood Anemones (Anemone nemorosa ) in the wood for the first time

Primroses ( Primula vulgaris) were in flower

There are plenty of coppice stools like this in the wood

Reydon Wood is coppiced each year.  Some of these trees are hundreds of years old and have been supplying wood for generations.  Here is a link which explains what coppicing is.  A copse is a wood which is or has been coppiced.

A clearing was carpeted with Primroses and Lesser Celandines (Ficaria verna )

Great Crested Newt ( Triturus cristatus)

In this clearing is a large pond which is home to all sorts of interesting creatures and plants.  The Great Crested Newt is Britain’s largest newt and has suffered in recent years due to habitat loss, especially by the infilling of ponds.

Water Violet (Hottonia palustris )

The Water Violet isn’t a violet at all, it is a member of the primrose family but the petals are a very pale lilac-colour which may be the reason for its common name.  It is usually found in sheltered ditches and ponds with shallow clear water which is rich in calcium.  Another name for it is Featherfoil because of its fine feathery leaves.

Tangled branches and shadows

The Bluebells were just beginning to flower (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)

Spring leaves

Woodland in the springtime

I always like to greet this giant Holly tree with its weeping branches (Ilex aquifolium)

A Hoverfly of some sort sunning itself on the path. With their large ‘fly’ eyes they always look like they are wearing large sun-glasses.

Goldilocks Buttercup (Ranunculus auricomus )

A spring-flowering buttercup.  The whole plant, including the stems and the leaves, dies back by mid-summer.  The flowers are usually deformed with petals missing and the upper leaves deeply cut.

Deeply rutted path

We were extremely fortunate to have had such dry weather during the week before our walk.  The paths had set like concrete and though they were uneven they were easier to walk on than if they had been wet!

With any luck I will be able to add to this short series of walks before Christmas!

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Walks With Elinor – Beccles

01 Thu Jul 2021

Posted by Clare Pooley in Days out, Rural Diary

≈ 72 Comments

Tags

Beccles, Beccles Quay, boats, glamping pod, River Waveney, Suffolk, Suffolk Broads, yachts

Elinor and I went to Beccles the week following our chilly walk in Halesworth.  You might think Beccles (rhymes with freckles) is a strange name for a town: according to my Dictionary of English Place-Names the name probably derives from the Old English for ‘pasture by a stream’.  Other derivations put forward are from the Brittonic for ‘small court’ or a contraction of ‘Beata Ecclesia’, the name of a Christian temple erected here c.960 AD.  Take your pick!

Elinor needed to buy her Grandmother a birthday card and gift and Beccles has a greater selection of shops than our more local towns.  We also wanted to have a walk by the river where I used to take Elinor when she was very small.  We used to go there as a place to rest and recuperate after visits to the dentist, which she found extremely stressful.

We were successful with our shopping and then, because Elinor was hungry we bought her a panini to eat in the car.  Unfortunately, it exploded and she and the seat belt were covered with runny cheese!  We often have these events which are sent to try us apparently, but they also make life that bit more interesting!  We then drove to the Boat Station car-park taking a couple of wrong turns on the way just to add to the excitement.

The weather was completely different from the week before.  It wasn’t warm but the sun was shining brightly and there was that something in the air that spoke of Spring and warmth to come.

Beccles Quay

Beccles is part of the Broads.  Not many people realize that the Broads stretch south into Suffolk, but they do.  A few people leave their boats at the Yacht Station at Beccles Quay over the winter.  There are WCs, shower and washing facilities (with points where one can empty chemical toilets), places to dispose of rubbish and a café, all provided for people travelling by boat wishing to stop here and enjoy visiting Beccles and its environs.  There were many people working on their boats when we visited or they were sitting on deck enjoying drinks, hot and cold.  There are boats and yachts for hire and we saw a few people out on the water.

Beccles Quay looking towards the town

Beccles Quay

Beccles Quay looking away from the town

Elinor

Path by the River Waveney looking towards the road bridge

Footbridge over the river which gives access to the town

Beccles church tower seen from the green

Beccles Quay  The strange floating building is one of the glamping Pods for rental from the boatyard.

Elinor and I returned home much refreshed by our visit to the Quay and the river.

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Walks With Elinor – Halesworth

25 Fri Jun 2021

Posted by Clare Pooley in Rural Diary, walking

≈ 69 Comments

Tags

crinkle-crankle wall, Halesworth, Halesworth Town Park, Halesworth Town River, Suffolk, walking

During the spring Elinor and I decided it would be good for us both if we could go out for walks together.  The restrictions had recently eased a little so that we felt it would be fine for us to drive somewhere different to walk instead of just walking the usual lanes near our house.  Elinor had been stuck at home for months and was becoming more fearful and anxious.  We though she should see that the world was still functioning albeit in a rather muted way.

Please click on this link to access a map of the town centre and more information about the town  https://www.halesworth.net/townmap/towncentremap.php

Our very first walk was on an extremely cold and gloomy day at the beginning of April.  We drove to Halesworth, one of our local towns and parked in the central town car-park.  It was so gloomy and cold that I took hardly any photos and most of those didn’t come out at all well.  We entered the Thoroughfare from the car-park and turned left towards the church and the Market Place.

Here is Halesworth Market Place a few years ago during the Day of Dance

We walked through the Market Place and down Chediston Street until we reached Rectory Lane which has a lovely crinkle-crankle wall down one side of it.

The Crinkle-crankle wall in Rectory Lane

Rectory Lane is also still known as Parson’s Lane as it cuts through the back of the town from the Old Rectory towards the Parish Church of St Mary. The Rector of Halesworth no longer lives in the enormous rectory which was sold to private buyers many years ago.  The lane meets the Town River a little further on and used to be a place where people went to sit and chat and share their sandwiches with the numerous ducks that lived on and near the river.  However, the town’s-people have been dissuaded from feeding the ducks because this apparently encouraged rats and bread wasn’t suitable food for ducks anyway and now the ducks have disappeared as well.

The Town River

It was all looking a little sad and run-down.  The water is clear enough but there are no reeds or rushes growing here and the retaining walls are crumbling.

There were a few plants growing and beginning to flower on our side of the river.

Green Alkanet (Pentaglottis sempervirens) with its blue forget-me-not flowers and Common Nettle (Urtica dioica)

Yellow Archangel (Lamiastrum galeobdolon subspecies argentatum)

This Archangel is a cultivated form of the wild flower and has sliver splashes on the leaves.  It usually flowers much earlier than the wild plant.

We turned right out of Rectory Lane into Rectory Street and then rejoined the Thoroughfare.  We turned left past the library and crossed the road at the roundabout next to the United Reformed church and entered Quay Street.  Just then it began to rain so we decided to cut short our walk and return to the car by way of the Town Park.  When I used to live in Halesworth many years ago there used to be a yard with a builder’s merchant’s a little way up Quay Street.  I used to walk through the yard to a path that led to the park.  The builder’s merchant’s was knocked down some time ago and in its place a large quantity of houses and apartments have been built.  We walked through this little estate and found that the path still led into the park.  The park is well laid out with plenty of grassy areas with spring bulbs and a few flower beds.  Lots of mature trees give shade and shelter and there is a play area with swings and slides and other equipment.  We crossed over the river by the bridge and continued through the park until we had regained the road by the carpark.

Though we had only been out for about half an hour we had enjoyed our walk and decided we would walk together again as soon as we could.

 

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I talk about what it's like living in a quiet part of Suffolk. I am a wife, mother and daughter, a practising Christian and love the natural world that surrounds me. I enjoy my life - most of the time!

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