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A Suffolk Lane

~ A diary of my life in rural north Suffolk.

A Suffolk Lane

Category Archives: France

Holiday in Brittany: August 1999. Part 4

02 Thu Jul 2026

Posted by Clare Pooley in architecture, Brittany, churches, Days out, France, Historic Buildings, Rural Diary, seashore

≈ 26 Comments

Tags

1999, Brittany, France, seaside

As threatened in my last post, here is the continuation of the diary of our holiday in Brittany.

See earlier Brittany posts :

Holiday in Brittany: August 1999

Holiday in Brittany – August 1999. Part 2.

Holiday in Brittany: August 1999. Part 3

ooo000ooo

Friday 27th August

Richard did not sleep well last night and was therefore quite tired today.  He heard Elinor wake up and went to get her milk and our cups of tea.  We went downstairs for breakfast and only when we had finished eating, Elinor and I were dressed and Richard in the bath did Alice get up.  I ironed some shirts of Richard’s that we had washed yesterday then Richard packed the car and at 12.30pm we set off for the beach.  We went to Kerfany les Pins via St. Thurien, Bannalec, Riec-sur-Bélon and passed near Moëlan-sur Mer.  We drove alongside the Bélon estuary which was mudflats as the tide was out.  We parked opposite a crêperie where we had lunch and then walked to the beach which was in a little cove.  It was a lovely beach; very sandy with lots of shells and pine-covered rocks all around.  Some very attractive houses were built on the top of the cliffs with their own steps down to the beach carved out of the rock.  The beach was not at all crowded when we got there as it was still lunchtime and even later in the afternoon when it was busier it never got so crowded we felt uncomfortable.

Eating at the crêperie near the beach. Nom nom nom

Alice giving Richard a look

The beach at Kerfany les Pins. Richard and Elinor are the two blurry figures in the centre of the picture.

Kerfany les Pins

Elinor loved it there and played with the sand and paddled and sat in the sea.  We left at about 4.00pm when some darker clouds came over and as we set off home it started to rain.  As we got nearer the gîte we noticed it had been raining very heavily.  It continued to rain until about 8.30pm by which time Elinor had been in bed half-an-hour.

Saturday 28th August

We went into Le Faouët before midday in the hope of finding a bank open.  We didn’t, so Richard got some money out of a cash machine.  We took Alice’s film in to be developed and bought some bread and croissants.  We then went to the Scorff Valley and the Forêt de Pont Calleck for a picnic.  On the way we encountered lots of cyclists and realised they were taking part in a road race.  We drove past another wedding with all the guests standing outside the church for photos and cyclists whizzing past.  The race course went along the road we were heading for and when we had parked near a picnic spot Richard was able to film the cyclists.  A couple (not cyclists!) were already having their lunch at one of the tables when we arrived and called out “Bonjour!” to us and smiled and waved. They left soon afterwards.  Their picnic was grander than ours as they had a wonderfully well stocked hamper and glasses of wine.  We just had food in paper bags, a fidgetty toddler and a grouchy teenager.  No wonder they left pretty sharpish!  Before we had finished, a group of four adults and six children arrived for their picnic birthday party but apart from that it was very quiet.  Alice ate a lot of pâté and Elinor played with the new bucket and spade set her Daddy had bought for her in Le Faouët.  We put our picnic things back in the car and went for a walk along the river.  The large family group took over the table we had used as it was in the shade and still in one piece.  We were still watching cyclists going past on the road on the other side of the river and were surprised and amused to see a group of nuns and young girls on bikes come racing down the hill.  The nuns habits were billowing out behind them and they were shouting to each other.  There were lots of damselflies flying about; beautiful blue and turquoise ones.  Elinor insisted we take the bucket on the walk with us and also the starfish mould which sadly, we dropped on the way.  We got to a muddy puddle on the path which Elinor wanted to play in and when we said no she started to shout.  She then wouldn’t walk back and cried very loudly even after I had given in and started to carry her.

The picnic. Glum faces!

The picnic. Smile please!  You can see the river just beyond the picnic table and the road on the other side is the white line a little higher that Richard’s head.

The walk with the bucket.

The walk. Elinor actually carrying her bucket!

Alice making a bid to escape us.

We drove to a large clothing store at Bayé just outside Quimperlé but found nothing we needed there.  We then went to a hypermarket to buy food and Alice bought two bags for school.  We drove home and relaxed for a while before cooking tea.  While I was sweeping up some gravel Elinor had brought in,  Annie the gîte owner called round with a tourist passport (discounts on tariffs for boat trips and museum entrances) and a bottle of home-made cider. She explained how to dispose of the rubbish, too.  Elinor went to bed with her bucket and Alice made us laugh when she misheard Richard talking about Oates’ gesture, thinking that he said that Oates was a jester.

Elinor is in bed at last!

Sunday 29th August

Richard did not feel very well this morning so we stayed at the gîte and read books etc.

Me writing this diary

Girls playing with the bucket set

Alice was always good at amusing Elinor

After lunch Richard, Elinor and I went to visit the Chapel of St. Barbe while Alice stayed behind to wash her hair and have some time to herself.  The chapel is not far from Le Faouët and Le Grand Pont which is where we parked. We decided to walk to the chapel – the sign said it was 0.5km away.  However, we walked the longer way round via the Fountain (which we never saw!) and had to carry Elinor a good two-thirds of the way as it was uphill and very rocky.  The wood we walked through was really lovely and in places smelt very fungus-y and autumnal.  As we neared the top there were a number of cave-like crevices at the side of the path.  Steps had been hewn into the rockface or made out of stone and Elinor was able to walk the last bit up to the chapel.

This was an amazing building as it looked as if it too, had been hewn out of the rock as well as the steps up to it.  There were stairs and arches and a bridge and everything seemed very tall.  We entered the chapel and had just begun admiring the ancient interior when we found we were shut in and had been included in a guided tour.  The female guide spoke very quickly in a monotone which we found almost impossible to follow.  Elinor soon got bored and began stamping and hooting but fortunately Richard managed to escape outside with her, along with another man.  I had to wait for quite a while longer before I could get out to join them.  I loved the carved angels who looked as if they had large earphones and the stained glass was beautiful.  There was a separate belfry for pilgrims to send their prayers to heaven.  We drank an orange juice and then went back down to the car via a different path. This was much narrower and steeper than the one we had climbed up by so poor Richard had to carry Elinor all the way down.  We were very tired when we got back to the car.

Chapel of St Barbe

Elinor at the chapel

Richard ready for a night on the town

After a rest at home and a drink we all got ready to go out for dinner.  We went to Querrien to see if the restaurant there was open – it wasn’t.  We then drove to Le Faouët and went to a crêperie/pizzaria and had a lovely meal.  Elinor made a bit of a fuss at first because she was hungry and I had to take her back to the car early as she was getting bored and tired.  Driving back to the gîte, Richard put the car lights on for the first time this holiday.  He found a toad on the doorstep when we got back.

To be continued….

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Holiday in Brittany – August 1999. Part 2.

24 Sun Mar 2024

Posted by Clare Pooley in Brittany, Days out, France, holidays, Rural Diary

≈ 50 Comments

Tags

Brittany, Kernascléden, L'Étang du Bel Air, Les Roches du Diable, R. Ellé, R. Scorff

Here follows the next episode of our Brittany holiday.  I thought I would include here an example of Breton folk music just so you can get an idea of the kind of music we heard when we arrived in Brittany.  I also apologise for the grainy and blurred photos.

Sunday 22nd August

This is where we were staying. I believe the building was a converted barn and the house where the owners lived is the taller building with the chimneys at the back.

We decided that we would not do much today and just get used to being in our cottage in France.  The weather was nice so we sat outside quite a lot.

View from the gîte.

Another view.

We drove into Le Faouët during the early evening and went to a Breton crêperie for tea.  We all enjoyed our meal and decided we would return there sometime soon.

Richard didn’t feel too well during the evening and went to bed early.  (Over-tired probably!).

 

Monday 23rd August

A foggy start to the day.

The day began well but we soon had our first accident with Alice breaking one of the plates as she was wiping up after we had washed the breakfast things.  (We are an accident-prone family!).  Richard took Elinor out to play on the swings but the swing broke and Richard badly burnt his arm on the rope as he tried to break his and Elinor’s fall.  After patching up his arm and having a cup of tea we decided we would go for a scenic drive during the afternoon to the Étang du Bel Air and the Scorff valley.  We cooked some soup for our lunch.

Alice and Elinor on the swing.

Everyone wanted a swing!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Shortly before setting off for our drive, Elinor fell down the steps from the sitting area onto the hard tiles in the dining area.  We didn’t realise at the time but she had landed on her ear and badly bruised it.

Another view
Another view
... and another!
… and another!

We drove through Le Faouët and, via L’Abbaye Notre-Dame de Langonnet, on to Priziac which is next to L’Étang du Bel Air.  We walked a little way round the lake until Elinor got tired and Alice began complaining of hunger and cold.  We returned to the little beach near the car-park where a café was just opening and bought coffee and crisps and Alice bought an ice-cream.  The ideal food to eat when you are cold!

The link below will lead you to some pictures of the lake courtesy of google maps and the photographers who have donated their photos to that site.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/%C3%89tang+du+Bel-Air+(Priziac)/@48.060833,-3.422222,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1sAF1QipNYWgEdiVJ1xESRARXWMaQmEjVSoJRR-nltk3VE!2e10!3e12!6shttps:%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2Fp%2FAF1QipNYWgEdiVJ1xESRARXWMaQmEjVSoJRR-nltk3VE%3Dw360-h172-k-no!7i5446!8i2617!4m7!3m6!1s0x4811aaf04b63c65f:0x7b65e6109b4eb1cf!8m2!3d48.060833!4d-3.422222!10e5!16s%2Fg%2F112yg5mzy?entry=ttu

We then drove to Kernascléden via le Croisty and St-Caradec-Trégomel.  We looked at the church which has medieval paintings in it and then went to the toy museum.  (I looked on-line to see if the toy museum is still going and unfortunately I don’t believe it is.  There are some images of the museum but I think they are old pictures.)  We bought some postcards and groceries from a shop before driving off to the Scorff valley with its beautiful scenery.  We stopped at a likely place by the R. Scorff and Richard and Alice got out of the car.  A kingfisher flew past and they saw lots of pond skaters (insects) in the calmer parts of the river.  Next, we drove to Plouay where I used a public toilet (most unpleasant!) and then travelled on to Les Roches du Diable and looked at the wonderful rock formations on the R. Ellé.The rocks are supposed to have been thrown by the devil at Saint Winwaloe who had set up home by the river but the saint outwitted and defeated the devil.  The rocks show the devil’s claw marks on them.

We drove back to our cottage and Richard cooked us pasta and sauce for our evening meal followed by crêpes.  The rain started as we got home and continued to fall very heavily almost all night long.

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Holiday in Brittany: August 1999

12 Tue Mar 2024

Posted by Clare Pooley in France, holidays, Rural Diary

≈ 40 Comments

Tags

Brittany, family, ferry crossing, France, gîte, holiday, Le Faouët, wedding

During a lull in the first year of the pandemic we managed to get our loft re-insulated.  We cleared the area of all our stored boxes and bags and also disposed of a large amount things we no longer needed as well as spare tiles and other decorating material left there by the previous owner. The firm we employed to do the insulation were extremely efficient, did the job quickly and neatly and cleared away all the old insulation material. We are very pleased with the results as it keeps the house cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

All the time we had lived in this house (we moved here in 2006) I had know that a number of boxes of mine were up in the loft but had never quite felt ready to get someone to help me bring them down so I could sort them out.  Therefore, I was very pleased to find my collection of knitting and sewing patterns and a few large cardboard boxes of papers, letters and other miscellaneous odds and ends.  I went through all of these things and disposed of what needed to go.  One or two plastic crates of papers went back up into the loft but all my knitting patterns stayed where I can find them and a couple of things that I thought might be useful were also kept down in the house.  One of those things was a paper bag containing short diaries from two holidays we had had in Brittany with a collection of maps and mementoes.  When I read much-missed Susan’s wonderful posts on her travels round Europe I began to think I ought to make a scrapbook of all my holiday memories.  Of course, I still haven’t got round to doing it but I also thought I might copy out my holiday diaries into this blog and scan some of the photos I took at the time.  The two holidays were in 1999 and 2002 when our daughters were very young and so were we (well, relatively young).

I will begin with our holiday in 1999 and present it in short(ish) installments.  I will also annotate it at times to make the meaning a little clearer.  Annotations are in brackets.  In late August 1999 I was nearly 41 years of age, Richard had just had his 46th birthday, Alice had had her 14th birthday in July and Elinor was 2 and a half years old.  At that time we were living in a cottage in Rumburgh just over two miles away from the house we are living in now.  Remember too, that in 1999 most people didn’t have mobile phones and digital cameras.  At the time, our cameras were the old-fashioned sort with film casettes/reels that needed to be developed by a professional. We didn’t take that many pictures!

                                                                o o O O o o

Friday 20th August 1999

Richard packed everything into the car, I took William (the cat) to the cattery and to our great surprise we managed to set off in good time in the middle of the afternoon.  We were off on our first ever holiday to Brittany and would be staying in a gîte, travelling by car and crossing the English Channel by ferry.

Thanks to atlasdigitalmaps.com. This map shows the south-east of England.  If you look at the top right of the map and you have excellent eyesight you’ll see the towns of Southwold on the coast and Halesworth a few miles inland. Rumburgh is about four miles north-west of Halesworth.  Portsmouth is at the bottom of the map, just left of centre and north of the Isle of Wight.

We had to travel a circuitous route to Portsmouth to avoid accidents and delays on the M25 (the infamous London orbital motorway).  (Going by the most direct route the distance to Portsmouth from home is about 200 miles and on a good day would take just under four hours).  We stopped in Surrey for tea (meal and drink) and then the last leg of the journey to Portsmouth was fairly short and trouble-free.  We found the ferry port easily and after an hour’s wait we boarded the ferry.  However, through not reading our ticket thoroughly enough and not knowing the layout of the ship we had clambered up to Deck 8 before realising our cabin was on Deck 2!  Richard and I left Alice with the six or seven bags on Deck 8 and went to find our cabin.  We had also realised we had left Elinor’s changing bag in the car and had to ask permission to go back to Deck 3 to fetch it.  We took Elinor with us as she cried loudly when left with Alice.  Eventually, everyone was together in our cabin with all our luggage and the ferry had set sail.  We went up to a self-service restaurant and we all had a drink.  Alice then decided she wanted to see a film so we left her at a cinema and Elinor and I went back to our cabin to get ready for bed.  Richard accompanied us there and then went off to have a drink in a bar.  Apparently, the bar was very lively with a band playing and then a magician.  Both Alice and Richard arrived back at the cabin within minutes of each other at about 11.30pm and were soon in bed.  The cabin was small but well laid out with a tiny WC and shower-room attached and we all had enough room.  It was an inside cabin, was air-conditioned and lit by electric light so one quickly lost perception of time.  I became a little claustrophobic and wheezy (I have asthma) and had some trouble getting comfortable.  However, being in a cabin was much better than having to get Elinor and Alice to sleep in one of the lounges as others had to do.  Elinor woke for about an hour during the night as her nose started running and she was sneezing.  (Elinor didn’t manage to sleep through the night until she was three years old.  The first time she did it and we had had our first undisturbed night in years we thought she had died!)  I woke again at 5.00am and got dressed at 5.30.  Richard woke and dressed at 6.00 and then we woke Alice and Elinor at about 6.30 as we were to dock at 7.00 am.  Elinor was a bit upset at being woken so early but soon calmed down when I gave her a Pingu comic.

Saturday 21st August 1999

We found the car and packed everyone and everything into it quickly and waited for permission to leave the boat.  It was wonderful to see the bright sunlight flooding into the car deck as the doors were opened.

Thanks to orangesmile.com for the map. This is a map of Brittany and St Malo is at the top right of the map. Le Faouët is at D5.

We eventually drove out onto St. Malo docks and then followed the ‘tout directions’ sign posts out of the town.  Somewhere near Dinan Richard stopped for more diesel and we then continued past Lamballe, St. Brieuc, Quintin, Corlay and Rostrenen.  By 10.30 we had arrived at the small town of Glomel, all very hungry and needing a break.  We parked the car and were getting Elinor out and into her pushchair when we realised that a wedding was about to take place.  Cars arrived with little pale blue net bows tied to their aerials or windscreen wipers.  Guests were walking about in their best clothes and with blue ribbon corsages on their lapels.  We walked up through the town to a café where we ordered drinks; orange juice for Alice and coffees for Richard and me.  Elinor had her own drink with her.  We heard car horns hooting and looked down the road to see the bride arriving in an old Citroën.  We heard bagpipe and reed pipe music playing as she was led into a building for the civil ceremony.  Richard went off to a boulangerie and bought pains aux raisins and pains aux chocolat which we were able to eat outside the café (which wasn’t serving food at that moment).  We were sitting opposite the church and we saw more guests beginning to arrive.  A large 4×4 Mitsubishi pulled up with two besom broomsticks tied to the back and a grotesque blow-up woman sitting in a pushchair tied to the roof.   When the civil ceremony finished the bride, groom and wedding party were led up the main street in a procession to the church by two men, one playing a talabard (the reedpipe) and the other playing the bagpipes (a binioù).  We left after they had entered the church at 11.00.  (I wish that one of us had taken a photo or two but our cameras were packed away in the car and those of you who have had children know how preoccupied with them one can be especially when they are away from home).  As we drove out Richard pointed out the large stand for photographs which had been erected outside the church.

Map of Le Faouët in the Morbihan district of Bretagne Sud (south Brittany). This map shows the town and it’s surrounding villages.

Street map of the town. The tourist office kindly marked the route we needed to take.

A postcard picture of the Halle.

We arrived in Le Fauoët about half an hour later and parked in the main square.  The large 16th century Halle had a market in it but we didn’t go in. We went to a café and had more drinks and then walked round the town and looked for somewhere to eat.  However, everywhere was very full so we decided we’d go to the supermarket and buy everything we’d need for the next few days and go on to Lanvénégen where we would be staying and try to eat at the café there.  We called in at the tourist office and got a lot of local information and the directions out of the town to Lanvénégen. 

Unfortunately, the café in Lanvénégen was closed until the 5th September so we drove on to St. Thurien, noting where the gîte was, and then on to Bannalec not finding anywhere open for lunch.  We had yet more drinks in Bannalec and then agreed to go to the gîte and risk arriving too early.  In fact it was gone 3.45 pm by the time we arrived at the Manoir des Lescreant.  Annie and Erick were very welcoming and we met their little daughter Emma too.  We unpacked the car and ate some bread and cheese.  We discovered that we had bought fermented milk by mistake – this is a very runny, cheesey, live yogurt – no good for Elinor or cups of coffee or tea!  Richard and I went back to the supermarket and got some sterilised milk (no fresh milk available in Brittany’s shops at that time) and more food for the evening meal.

At last, we settled down for the evening, the only excitement being the horses escaping from their field and finding their way onto the field outside our gîte.  Elinor settled down for the night surprisingly quickly and we all slept quite well.

More next time….!

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I talk about what it's like living in a quiet part of Suffolk. I am a wife, mother and daughter, a practising Christian and love the natural world that surrounds me. I enjoy my life - most of the time!

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